Travel tips, anecdotes and glimpses of daily life from this side of the world.
“You’re building a fire out of coconut shells?”
That was my astonished reaction to Mohamed the chef, who was calmly preparing the backyard grill for tonight’s dinner, which would be grilled jackfish. He had assembled a pile of dried halved coconut shells on the grill and was dousing them with lighter fluid.
For any travelers who’ll be taking the train in India for the first time – especially for anyone who’s totally freaked out by the idea!
Heading to India? Some things you should know first...
These are the tips I would want someone to give me if I were about to visit to India for the first time, compiled after my 4 months there.
The villages that make up Upper Dharamsala are home to some amazing restaurants and cafes, and these are my favorites. Not only do these places serve beautiful, delicious, nourishing food in cozy, inviting spaces with friendly service, their prices will make your jaw drop in disbelief. You realize you’re absolutely spoiled rotten when you come to feel that $5 for a lunch is overpriced.
In Dharamsala, it was the clouds that first enchanted me.
The ocean of clouds that stretches out below the city as far as the eye can see, always moving, shifting, changing, forming an ethereal buffer between this mountaintop sanctuary city and the rest of the world. The clouds that occasionally ascend to envelop the streets of the town and its colorful buildings in a thick fog...