Night of the Balinese Spirits

When dark Balinese spirits come out to play…

It’s 3:30am January 10th, 2018 and I’m wide awake. I’ve been lying in bed absolutely wired since a little after midnight, and this is not normal for me. My normal is: once my head hits the pillow, I’m out like a light. On rare occasions when I have trouble falling asleep, it’s because I drank coffee after 1pm, but today I didn’t drink any coffee. ..

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10 Days of Silence

It’s 2:30pm on August 9, 2017 in Haryana, India.  I’m in a quiet, peaceful place: a large room with white walls, an octagonal vaulted ceiling and beige meditation cushions placed in evenly-spaced rows across the floor, but at the moment I feel nothing that remotely resembles peace.  I’m glaring at the meditation cushion in front of me as if it were a torture device...

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Eat Drink Dharamsala

The villages that make up Upper Dharamsala are home to some amazing restaurants and cafes, and these are my favorites. Not only do these places serve beautiful, delicious, nourishing food in cozy, inviting spaces with friendly service, their prices will make your jaw drop in disbelief.  You realize you’re absolutely spoiled rotten when you come to feel that $5 for a lunch is overpriced.

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Enchanted City

In Dharamsala, it was the clouds that first enchanted me. 

The ocean of clouds that stretches out below the city as far as the eye can see, always moving, shifting, changing, forming an ethereal buffer between this mountaintop sanctuary city and the rest of the world.  The clouds that occasionally ascend to envelop the streets of the town and its colorful buildings in a thick fog...

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The Dalai Lama

A little after 8:30am the Dalai Lama entered, surrounded and supported by his security detail.  As he walked slowly through the pathway among the seated crowds, stopping to smile at people, shake their hands, sometimes talk with them, something unexpected happened...

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People of Saigon

Hot, crowded, sprawling, throbbing with hordes of people and scooters in constant motion at all hours of the day: that is Saigon.  As though intent on snatching the title of City Who Never Sleeps from New York, Vietnam’s largest city never rests...

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22 Hours in Fiji

Gina amazed me.

I met her via a phone call in November 2010.  When I called Pacific Island Sea Planes, she was the person who answered.  I was calling from somewhere on the Sunshine Coast of Australia, and I was in a quandary...

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